Reply by: shiverfix Posted: Jun. 27, 8:53:09 AM Points: 3441
There are people on here who have actually done this, and will have real life advice to give. I did do a lot of research when I was doing some work on my boat, and there was a lot of back and forth on this question. The issue is, if you seal it, make sure it is totally sealed, including edges. If water can get in, it then cannot get out and the wood will rot inside the fiberglass.
Walmart has cheap bilge pumps . . .can you patch it up enough to make it through the summer? Ajax speaks from experience . . .you might be better off to look for another bout come this fall. You ever hear me talk about a safety cable on your motor? If the trasoms shot,run a cable from your motor to a safe anchor point.A drowned motor is better than a lost motor.
Floors alone Iíd repair. Itís the transom that scares me. Not sure the power of your engine. It if you need to jam it full speed forward or reverse to avoid something, I wouldnít want to be worried about the strength of a repaired transom.
If the engine etc is still good. Just look for a newer all aluminum hull and never look back. Has to be one out there with a blown motor.
I am a fine woodworker. I recommend west system epoxy. mix a little sand in when you do the floor. I had a old 18 foot boat I did a ton of work on then the 2013 flood took it from me. lived in coal creek...Ö also a marine varnish would work as well... several light coats and sand lightly in between coats. take your time and work neat....
Sorry for the delay. Thanks for all the feed back. I'm all ready elbow deep in this thing. It's proving to be a challenge that's for sure. The set up in this boat worked for this long should go a bit longer if I get it done right. I've got the transom out and will be cutting new pieces shortly. I've got a sheet of cdx exterior plywood. I'm not sure if it's pressure treated or not. I will find out when I go get another for the floor. Thanks shiverfix about the copper in the pressure treated wood. I have no idea about that. I will definitely take precautions with the aluminum.
Depending on how this rebuild goes i will probably be in the market for a new floatation device. I've just really like this boat and almost got it the way I want it. It would be nice to upgrade.....
Reply by: blackdog1 Posted: Jun. 29, 6:22:55 AM Points: 0
been down this road a couple of times. the exterior plywood is fine, marine grade just does not have any void. use a penetrating epoxy to seal the the plywood, predrill everything you can so that the hole also have sealant . give it 2 coats of the epoxy and it will be sealed good. I bought mine from us composites out of Florida, great people to work with. do the same thing with the floor wood. seal the bolts and screws with 3m 5200 fast cure, slow cure will take a week to setup. do not use silicone !
Reply by: GoNe_FiShIn_11 Posted: Aug. 23, 2:55:27 PM Points: 5040
It's been a long summer but she's about sea worthy. I ended up using 2x12 instead of plywood for the transom. I glued and dowed pieces together and sealed with fiberglass resin. I'm glad I went that way as it turned out very stout. Used plywood for the floor board. Sealed up with 3m 5200.
Reply by: Goosehunter82 Posted: Aug. 23, 6:00:16 PM Points: 47516
Nice but Tyler. I spoke to him about it but I spent a large fortune setting up my new camper the last couple of months and have only used that small boat about 4 times since buying it. I'm sure I'll regret it later when I spend 700 on one. Good buy!
Reply by: GoNe_FiShIn_11 Posted: Aug. 23, 8:55:12 PM Points: 5040
I thought for sure you had scooped it up. I was surprised when he posted again. I'm ready to hit some water to see what this thing can do. My neighbor just got an ulterra for next to nothing. I'm trying to get him to trade me. 😉 Lol