Post By: opencage Posted: 3/13/2019 1:40:38 PMPoints: 159869
Part 1: [log in for link]
This project is still going. Lots of stops and starts through the winter. Paints and chemicals usually requiring 50* F or warmer. But I have just about all of the trailer painted. Only need to do bunk brackets (which may get replaced anyway, have to see how they turn out after de-rusting in vinegar for a few months) and wheels.
I even got first coat of black on the axle and other trailer.
Looking forward to this storm passing, warmer weather, and putting this thing back together so I can start on the boat!
Reply by: Hawaiian Punch Posted: Mar. 14, 5:44:17 AM Points: 3226
It's a far cry from the black and rust POS I gave you. . . .can't wait to see the finished product. B.T.W. with the right winch and strap,you will be able to pull most any boat on to your trailer as long as you can get the front of the boat linned up first.I put a 3X41/2 in box tube for my winch stand and I've pulled an 18 ft Blue Finn deep V onto the trailer,when we could not get the trailer into the water deep enough.A strong winch stand will save your day!
Hint: Buy a strap for the winch . . .my strap has finally gotten wore out on the hook end.I took it off the winch and cut off 2 ft on the hook end and resewed the hook.Should be good for 5 more yrs.
I use my Kenmore sewing machine with a special nylon thread from Ralph sewing supplys . . .its called #69 nylon and its what the hockey teams use to repair their pads and gloves.(that thread is strong!!!!) I also use a needle made for a heavy thread in my machine . . . .I'll sew yours if you want me to . . . B.T.W. it took 7 or 8 yrs to weather and wear out the strap and only about the first 2 to 3 ft were bad,there is still 20 plus ft of strap left.(more than enough to get my 18 ft boat loaded) You may never use more of the strap than the first few ft and the weather will be your worst enemy. (sun rot,UV rot) my strap got pulled into the winch gears once and that tore it up . . .it still worked,but why risk a bad time?
Reply by: opencage Posted: Mar. 18, 6:35:14 PM Points: 159869
Question for anyone who knows something about trailers.
I have a 1.5x1.5 inch square drop axle. I’d like a bit more ground clearance. The bottom of the axle has holes to accept the springs’ center bolts, the top does not. Is there a way for me to install the springs on top of my axle?
Can I drill small holes (0.5 inch diameter, 0.125 inch depth) in the top to accept the the center bolt heads without compromising the axle’s structural integrity? I know that this question is difficult to answer, any action I take is my own choice and responsibility, but I would like to hear what the experts think. The axle is solid throughout and in good condition. There are no markings or stamps on it for ID. Axle info: 58.3 pounds, spring center distance: 55.5 inches, hub face to hub face distance: 78.5 inches, end to end distance: 83 inches, drop: 4 inches.
Or to avoid drilling, can I use a second mounting plate between the springs and axle to accept the center bolt head or will the axle slide? Pictures 2 and 3.
I’ve seen non-weld spring seats for square axles to accept the center bold head. [log in for link] This site says no welding or drilling, but wouldn't the axle be able to slide if there's no hole or spring seat to keep in place? And the mounting plate would just do the same thing wouldn't it?
Reply by: cookster Posted: Mar. 19, 10:03:10 PM Points: 60268
Looks like it will work just as good and the part in your link. Just use lock washers and torque it down and should be good. I think I would replace that top plate with a thicker one like the bottom. I would run it.
Reply by: opencage Posted: Mar. 20, 6:37:06 AM Points: 159869
Thanks cookster. I'll get some solid thick plates and test it out over some shorter drives then check it. The more I researched it, the more I saw it and heard about "non-weld" spring seats for square axles. I asked etrailer.com too and one of their guys think it'll work.